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<SubjectHeadingText>confection; Empire Wilhelminien; Allemagne; prêt-à-porter; mannequin; distribution; histoire de la mode; culture matérielle</SubjectHeadingText>
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<Text textformat="02" language="fre">&#60;p&#62;Berlin, capitale du jeune Empire wilhelminien, s'impose au tournant de siècle 1900 comme centre incontesté de la mode en Allemagne. Le succès de la mode berlinoise ne repose pas sur des ateliers de grands couturiers, mais sur une industrie qui produit et vend des vêtements fabriqués en série selon des tailles standardisées (confection) à une clientèle bourgeoise et aux classes moyennes. S&#8217;intéresser à la confection berlinoise, c&#8217;est découvrir un pan de l&#8217;histoire de la mode encore méconnu en France. L&#8217;analyse de la culture matérielle et visuelle de ce secteur permet de comprendre la logique d&#8217;une production vestimentaire qui vise à vendre une mode à moindre coût et d&#8217;appréhender les stratégies commerciales de magasins que l&#8217;on ne connaît plus aujourd&#8217;hui. De nombreuses enseignes berlinoises réputées à l&#8217;époque contribuaient à cette culture de la mode par l&#8217;aménagement de leurs magasins, leurs vitrines, leurs réclames et leurs défilés, entraînant des changements sociaux dans la mode.&#60;/p&#62;</Text>
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<Text language="fre">Étudier la mode berlinoise autour de 1900, c'est s&#8217;intéresser à l&#8217;une des premières industries sérielles du vêtement et à la culture matérielle et visuelle de sa commercialisation.</Text>
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<Text textformat="02" language="eng">&#60;p&#62;Berlin, capital of the newly founded Wilhelminian Empire, established itself as Germany's undisputed fashion center around 1900. Berlin's fashion success was not based on the work of grand couturiers, but on an industry that produced and sold mass-produced garments in standardized sizes (&#60;i&#62;Konfektion&#60;/i&#62;) to bourgeois and middle-class customers. To take an interest in Berlin's clothing industry is to discover a part of the history of fashion that is still little-known in France. By analyzing the material and visual culture of this sector, we can understand the logic of clothing production aimed at selling low-cost fashion, and the commercial strategies of stores that we no longer know today. Many of Berlin's most famous names of the time contributed to this fashion culture through the design of their stores, their window displays, their advertising and their fashion shows, bringing about social changes in fashion.&#60;/p&#62;</Text>
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<Text language="eng">To study Berlin fashion around 1900 is to look at one of the first serial clothing industries and the material and visual culture of its commercialization.</Text>
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<Text textformat="02">&#60;p&#62;Avant-propos&#60;br /&#62;
Liste des abréviations &#60;br /&#62;
Introduction&#60;br /&#62;
Chapitre 1. Produire en série &#60;br /&#62;
Chapitre 2. Vendre la mode en série &#60;br /&#62;
Chapitre 3. Mettre la mode en scène &#60;br /&#62;
Chapitre 4. Prestige, nouveautés et classes : mode sérielle et société&#60;br /&#62;
Chapitre 5. Des codes bourgeois à la représentation &#60;br /&#62;
Conclusion &#60;br /&#62;
Bibliographie &#60;br /&#62;
Répertoire des magasins&#60;br /&#62;
Liste des figures&#60;br /&#62;
Index&#60;/p&#62;</Text>
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<Text language="fre">La collection porte sur l'histoire des modes et des apparences de l'Antiquité à nos jours dans les mondes occidentaux et extra-occidentaux.</Text>
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<Text language="eng">The collection covers the history of fashions and appearances from Antiquity to the present day in the Western and non-Western worlds.</Text>
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<Text language="fre">&#60;p&#62;Collection fondée en 2024 et dirigée par Isabelle Paresys (Université de Lille) et Damien Delille (Université de Lyon).&#60;/p&#62;  &#60;p&#62;La collection porte sur l'histoire des modes et des apparences de l'Antiquité à nos jours dans les mondes occidentaux et extra-occidentaux. Elle accueille monographies, ouvrages collectifs et essais consacrés à l'ensemble des éléments déterminant les apparences humaines, aussi bien dans leur corporalité, leur matérialité et leur évolution dans le temps que dans leurs productions et usages. Elle intègre aussi les travaux portant sur les différentes formes de représentations littéraires et visuelles qui leur ont été données dans l'histoire. La collection prend en considération l&#8217;historiographie de toutes ces questions. Elle intègre le champ théorique, critique et pratique des études de mode, à partir d&#8217;un dialogue interdisciplinaire entre histoire culturelle, visuelle et matérielle, histoire de l&#8217;art, de la littérature, des arts du spectacle, économie, sociologie et anthropologie. Elle ambitionne aussi de publier en langue française les fondamentaux de la littérature académique étrangère sur ces questions.&#60;/p&#62;</Text>
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